Martin M. Miles' photos with the keyword: Vezelay

The Basilique Sainte-Marie-Madeleine in Vezelay is a breathtaking jewel of romanesque architecture. This is probably the church I have visited most often all over France. As a young student at the university back in the early 70s I had done some research about the "Cluny Network". Vezelay played a role in that and I had been here a first time. The relics of Sainte Marie-Magdalene had been venerated here and this was a major centre of pilgrimage up to the day when in 1279 Dominican monks in Saint-Maximin-la-Sainte-Baume claimed to have found the "real" sarcophagus of Marie Madeleine. When the pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela had developed into a pan-European phenomenon, Vezelay was a gathering point, as here the "Via Lemovicensis" started. Bernard of Clairvaux had preached the Second Crusade to a large crowd at Vezelay in 1146. In 1189, the Frankish and English factions of the Third Crusade met here before departing for the Holy Land. The English army was led by Richard I of England (aka "Richard the Lionheart", "Cœur de Lion"), the Frankish by Philip II of France (aka "Phillipe Auguste") One of the many things, I could not understand as a young student was, how people covered these enormous distances. Many years later, after I had visited Vezelay a couple of times by car, I decided in 2005 to walk to Vezelay. I started (absolutely inexperienced!), in Trier (Treves) - and gave up in Vaucouleurs after about a week. I restarted with some more experience (and less luggage) some weeks later in Vaucouleurs and finally reached Vezelay August 2nd. 2005. There I found the office of the "Association des 'Amis et Pèlerins de Saint-Jacques de la Voie de Vézelay", and there another a long story started, that kept me walking... In 2019 the facade and the narthex were under renovation. I have uploaded already many photos taken in and around Vezelay, so I will add only two this time.

Seen on the right is the bell tower of Notre-Dame. The 50m high tower is considered a masterpiece of the flamboyant Gothic style. In 858 the Count of Vienne and his wife Berthe founded a monastery here, but already in 873, it was looted and completely devastated by the Normans. The monks (and nuns) rebuilt the convent on the hill above Saint-Père on a place, that later developed into a main pilgrim place of the medieval times: Vezelay. The tower can be seen on the hill. The Via Lemovicensis (aka "Voie de Vézelay") began up there. I had started my hike in Trier (Trèves) in 2005 it took me about 5 weeks to reach Vezelay. From here the "chemin" was much easier to find. I have uploaded already many photos taken in and around Vezelay, so I will add only two this time.

Standing on the hill behind the Basilica looking southeast. The little village Saint-Père, known for the church with that high white steeple. The moon is out already. A warm summer evening. Acclaimed Marc Meneau runs a famous hotel and gourmet restaurant (*** Michelin) in Saint-Père since many years. Serge Gainsbourg liked the place and stayed in that hotel 1990 for weeks. I saw polaroids in the nearby bar-tabac, showing Serge smoking cigarettes and drinking pastis in that bar with the locals. Serge died in March 1991 of a heart attack.

I had found this place, in the back of the Basilica, already some years ago. There is even a bench. The village seen here is Saint-Père, known for the church with that high white steeple. "Sittin' on the dock of the bay, watchin' the tide roll away" like Otis Redding on a summer evening. "Looks like nothing's gonna change everything still remains the same" Acclaimed Marc Meneau runs a gourmet restaurant (*** Michelin) in Saint-Père. Serge Gainsbourg liked the place and stayed in Meneau´s hotel 1990 for weeks. I saw polaroids in the nearby bar-tabac, showing Serge smoking cigarettes and drinking pastis with the locals. Serge died in March 1991 of a heart attack.

The Basilique Sainte-Marie-Madeleine is a jewel of Romanesque architecture. The nave was erected within 20 years, from 1120 on, after the preceding church burnt down, with a loss of more than 1000 lifes. The choir and the transept, seen here, were erected 1185 - 1215. They are completed already in gothic style. The relics of Sainte Marie Madeleine, that had been here since around 1050, made Vezelay to a center of pilgrimage (and the starting point of the Via Lemovizensis). But in 1279 dominican monks in Saint-Maximin-la-Sainte-Baume claimed to have found the "real" sarcophagus of Sainte Marie Madeleine. Unfortunately the Dominicans found the patronage by Pope Boniface VIII and Charles d'Anjou - and so Vezelay lost it´s importance. In 1559, during the Wars of Religion, Huguenots looted Vezelay und burnt the relics, that were still in Vezelay. Today there is a golden reliquary in the large, probably carolingian crypt, so obviously at least a part of the relics are still here. Prosper Mérimée and Viollet-le-Duc saved the basilica, that was a ruin in the early 19th century. When Prosper Mérimée started the renovation of the basilica in 1840, he was 26 years old. This was the first task for the young architect.. There are three portals in Vezelay, protected by a large narthex. The carvings survived the vandalism of the centuries and are full of details. I have uploaded "totals" on previous visits. Mathew 28, 19-20 "Therefore go and make disciples of all nations, baptizing them in the name of the Father and of the Son and of the Holy Spirit, and teaching them to obey everything I have commanded you. And surely I am with you always, to the very end of the age." All nations included the mythical "Cynocephali". Already the ancient Greek knew, that they lived on the edge of the world. Here they stand on the edge of the portal's outer archivolt.

The Basilique Sainte-Marie-Madeleine is a jewel of Romanesque architecture. The nave was erected within 20 years, from 1120 on, after the preceding church burnt down, with a loss of more than 1000 lifes. The choir and the transept, seen here, were erected 1185 - 1215. They are completed already in gothic style. The relics of Sainte Marie Madeleine, that had been here since around 1050, made Vezelay to a center of pilgrimage (and the starting point of the Via Lemovizensis). But in 1279 dominican monks in Saint-Maximin-la-Sainte-Baume claimed to have found the "real" sarcophagus of Sainte Marie Madeleine. Unfortunately the Dominicans found the patronage by Pope Boniface VIII and Charles d'Anjou - and so Vezelay lost it´s importance. In 1559, during the Wars of Religion, Huguenots looted Vezelay und burnt the relics, that were still in Vezelay. Today there is a golden reliquary in the large, probably carolingian crypt, so obviously at least a part of the relics are still here. Prosper Mérimée and Viollet-le-Duc saved the basilica, that was a ruin in the early 19th century. When Prosper Mérimée started the renovation of the basilica in 1840, he was 26 years old. This was the first task for the young architect.. There are three portals in Vezelay, protected by a large narthex. The carvings survived the vandalism of the centuries and are full of details. I have uploaded "totals" on previous visits. Two discussing apostles just after the Holy Spirit came at Pentecost. Act 2.4 "All of them were filled with the Holy Spirit and began to speak in other tongues as the Spirit enabled them."

The Basilique Sainte-Marie-Madeleine is a jewel of Romanesque architecture. The nave was erected within 20 years, from 1120 on, after the preceding church burnt down, with a loss of more than 1000 lifes. The choir and the transept, seen here, were erected 1185 - 1215. They are completed already in gothic style. The relics of Sainte Marie Madeleine, that had been here since around 1050, made Vezelay to a center of pilgrimage (and the starting point of the Via Lemovizensis). But in 1279 dominican monks in Saint-Maximin-la-Sainte-Baume claimed to have found the "real" sarcophagus of Sainte Marie Madeleine. Unfortunately the Dominicans found the patronage by Pope Boniface VIII and Charles d'Anjou - and so Vezelay lost it´s importance. In 1559, during the Wars of Religion, Huguenots looted Vezelay und burnt the relics, that were still in Vezelay. Today there is a golden reliquary in the large, probably carolingian crypt, so obviously at least a part of the relics are still here. Prosper Mérimée and Viollet-le-Duc saved the basilica, that was a ruin in the early 19th century. When Prosper Mérimée started the renovation of the basilica in 1840, he was 26 years old. This was the first task for the young architect.. There are 99 carved capitals in the Basilique Sainte-Marie-Madeleine. Only a few were so damaged, that they had to be replaced during the renovation of the church. These damaged ones can be seen in the neighbouring museum now. All other capitals are still exactly in that places, they were carved for between 1125 and 1140. There is a specific smooth carving style in Vezelay. Here once were two elephants standing trunk in trunk. A vandal destroyed the capital. Either he could not stand the harmony of the animal couple, or he just did not like elephants at all. Charlemagne´s Abul Abbas had died in 810, more than 300 years before these elephants were carved. Two elephants reached Europe a century after the capital was created. The "Cremona Elephant", a gift presented to Frederick II by Sultan Al-Kamil in 1229, and the elephant Louis IX (aka "Saint Louis") presented to Henry III. This elephant, imported to France by Louis on his return from the crusade, died in cold and wet London in 1258.

The Basilique Sainte-Marie-Madeleine is a jewel of Romanesque architecture. The nave was erected within 20 years, from 1120 on, after the preceding church burnt down, with a loss of more than 1000 lifes. The choir and the transept, seen here, were erected 1185 - 1215. They are completed already in gothic style. The relics of Sainte Marie Madeleine, that had been here since around 1050, made Vezelay to a center of pilgrimage (and the starting point of the Via Lemovizensis). But in 1279 dominican monks in Saint-Maximin-la-Sainte-Baume claimed to have found the "real" sarcophagus of Sainte Marie Madeleine. Unfortunately the Dominicans found the patronage by Pope Boniface VIII and Charles d'Anjou - and so Vezelay lost it´s importance. In 1559, during the Wars of Religion, Huguenots looted Vezelay und burnt the relics, that were still in Vezelay. Today there is a golden reliquary in the large, probably carolingian crypt, so obviously at least a part of the relics are still here. Prosper Mérimée and Viollet-le-Duc saved the basilica, that was a ruin in the early 19th century. When Prosper Mérimée started the renovation of the basilica in 1840, he was 26 years old. This was the first task for the young architect.. There are 99 carved capitals in the Basilique Sainte-Marie-Madeleine. Only a few were so damaged, that they had to be replaced during the renovation of the church. These damaged ones can be seen in the neighbouring museum now. All other capitals are still exactly in that places, they were carved for between 1125 and 1140. There is a specific smooth carving style in Vezelay. Here once were two elephants standing trunk in trunk. A vandal destroyed the capital. Either he could not stand the harmony of the animal couple, or he just did not like elephants at all. Charlemagne´s Abul Abbas had died in 810, more than 300 years before these elephants were carved. Two elephants reached Europe a century after the capital was created. The "Cremona Elephant", a gift presented to Frederick II by Sultan Al-Kamil in 1229, and the elephant Louis IX (aka "Saint Louis") presented to Henry III. This elephant, imported to France by Louis on his return from the crusade, died in cold and wet London in 1258.

The Basilique Sainte-Marie-Madeleine is a jewel of Romanesque architecture. The nave was erected within 20 years, from 1120 on, after the preceding church burnt down, with a loss of more than 1000 lifes. The choir and the transept, seen here, were erected 1185 - 1215. They are completed already in gothic style. The relics of Sainte Marie Madeleine, that had been here since around 1050, made Vezelay to a center of pilgrimage (and the starting point of the Via Lemovizensis). But in 1279 dominican monks in Saint-Maximin-la-Sainte-Baume claimed to have found the "real" sarcophagus of Sainte Marie Madeleine. Unfortunately the Dominicans found the patronage by Pope Boniface VIII and Charles d'Anjou - and so Vezelay lost it´s importance. In 1559, during the Wars of Religion, Huguenots looted Vezelay und burnt the relics, that were still in Vezelay. Today there is a golden reliquary in the large, probably carolingian crypt, so obviously at least a part of the relics are still here. Prosper Mérimée and Viollet-le-Duc saved the basilica, that was a ruin in the early 19th century. When Prosper Mérimée started the renovation of the basilica in 1840, he was 26 years old. This was the first task for the young architect.. There are 99 carved capitals in the Basilique Sainte-Marie-Madeleine. Only a few were so damaged, that they had to be replaced during the renovation of the church. These damaged ones can be seen in the neighbouring museum now. All other capitals are still exactly in that places, they were carved for between 1125 and 1140. There is a specific smooth carving style in Vezelay. Here is a good shepherd.

The Basilique Sainte-Marie-Madeleine is a jewel of Romanesque architecture. The nave was erected within 20 years, from 1120 on, after the preceding church burnt down, with a loss of more than 1000 lifes. The choir and the transept, seen here, were erected 1185 - 1215. They are completed already in gothic style. The relics of Sainte Marie Madeleine, that had been here since around 1050, made Vezelay to a center of pilgrimage (and the starting point of the Via Lemovizensis). But in 1279 dominican monks in Saint-Maximin-la-Sainte-Baume claimed to have found the "real" sarcophagus of Sainte Marie Madeleine. Unfortunately the Dominicans found the patronage by Pope Boniface VIII and Charles d'Anjou - and so Vezelay lost it´s importance. In 1559, during the Wars of Religion, Huguenots looted Vezelay und burnt the relics, that were still in Vezelay. Today there is a golden reliquary in the large, probably carolingian crypt, so obviously at least a part of the relics are still here. Prosper Mérimée and Viollet-le-Duc saved the basilica, that was a ruin in the early 19th century. When Prosper Mérimée started the renovation of the basilica in 1840, he was 26 years old. This was the first task for the young architect.. There are 99 carved capitals in the Basilique Sainte-Marie-Madeleine. Only a few were so damaged, that they had to be replaced during the renovation of the church. These damaged ones can be seen in the neighbouring museum now. All other capitals are still exactly in that places, they were carved for between 1125 and 1140. There is a specific smooth carving style in Vezelay. Here is a hunting scene. The hunter is on horseback, the dog (on a leash) has cornered the deer. And the grapes in the background are ripe, so this must be in autumn.

The Basilique Sainte-Marie-Madeleine is a jewel of Romanesque architecture. The nave was erected within 20 years, from 1120 on, after the preceding church burnt down, with a loss of more than 1000 lifes. The choir and the transept, seen here, were erected 1185 - 1215. They are completed already in gothic style. The relics of Sainte Marie Madeleine, that had been here since around 1050, made Vezelay to a center of pilgrimage (and the starting point of the Via Lemovizensis). But in 1279 dominican monks in Saint-Maximin-la-Sainte-Baume claimed to have found the "real" sarcophagus of Sainte Marie Madeleine. Unfortunately the Dominicans found the patronage by Pope Boniface VIII and Charles d'Anjou - and so Vezelay lost it´s importance. In 1559, during the Wars of Religion, Huguenots looted Vezelay und burnt the relics, that were still in Vezelay. Today there is a golden reliquary in the large, probably carolingian crypt, so obviously at least a part of the relics are still here. Prosper Mérimée and Viollet-le-Duc saved the basilica, that was a ruin in the early 19th century. When Prosper Mérimée started the renovation of the basilica in 1840, he was 26 years old. This was the first task for the young architect.. There are 99 carved capitals in the Basilique Sainte-Marie-Madeleine. Only a few were so damaged, that they had to be replaced during the renovation of the church. These damaged ones can be seen in the neighbouring museum now. All other capitals are still exactly in that places, they were carved for between 1125 and 1140. There is a specific smooth carving style in Vezelay. As well typical for the evil characters here are extravagant hair styles. Here are the horrors of hell.

The Basilique Sainte-Marie-Madeleine is a jewel of Romanesque architecture. The nave was erected within 20 years, from 1120 on, after the preceding church burnt down, with a loss of more than 1000 lifes. The choir and the transept, seen here, were erected 1185 - 1215. They are completed already in gothic style. The relics of Sainte Marie Madeleine, that had been here since around 1050, made Vezelay to a center of pilgrimage (and the starting point of the Via Lemovizensis). But in 1279 dominican monks in Saint-Maximin-la-Sainte-Baume claimed to have found the "real" sarcophagus of Sainte Marie Madeleine. Unfortunately the Dominicans found the patronage by Pope Boniface VIII and Charles d'Anjou - and so Vezelay lost it´s importance. In 1559, during the Wars of Religion, Huguenots looted Vezelay und burnt the relics, that were still in Vezelay. Today there is a golden reliquary in the large, probably carolingian crypt, so obviously at least a part of the relics are still here. Prosper Mérimée and Viollet-le-Duc saved the basilica, that was a ruin in the early 19th century. When Prosper Mérimée started the renovation of the basilica in 1840, he was 26 years old. This was the first task for the young architect.. There are 99 carved capitals in the Basilique Sainte-Marie-Madeleine. Only a few were so damaged, that they had to be replaced during the renovation of the church. These damaged ones can be seen in the neighbouring museum now. All other capitals are still exactly in that places, they were carved for between 1125 and 1140. There is a specific smooth carving style in Vezelay. As well typical for the evil characters here are extravagant hair styles. Here is a Luxuria, attacked by snakes and chased by a devil.

The Basilique Sainte-Marie-Madeleine is a jewel of Romanesque architecture. The nave was erected within 20 years, from 1120 on, after the preceding church burnt down, with a loss of more than 1000 lifes. The choir and the transept, seen here, were erected 1185 - 1215. They are completed already in gothic style. The relics of Sainte Marie Madeleine, that had been here since around 1050, made Vezelay to a center of pilgrimage (and the starting point of the Via Lemovizensis). But in 1279 dominican monks in Saint-Maximin-la-Sainte-Baume claimed to have found the "real" sarcophagus of Sainte Marie Madeleine. Unfortunately the Dominicans found the patronage by Pope Boniface VIII and Charles d'Anjou - and so Vezelay lost it´s importance. In 1559, during the Wars of Religion, Huguenots looted Vezelay und burnt the relics, that were still in Vezelay. Today there is a golden reliquary in the large, probably carolingian crypt, so obviously at least a part of the relics are still here. Prosper Mérimée and Viollet-le-Duc saved the basilica, that was a ruin in the early 19th century. When Prosper Mérimée started the renovation of the basilica in 1840, he was 26 years old. This was the first task for the young architect.. The basicila has a length of about 100m, even more than 120, when the narthex is added. Hugues Delautre could proof in 1976, that the architects of the 12th century "implanted" a very special feature into the building. Each year at noon of the summer solstice when the sun is in the climax, the light from the south windows casts light spots in the middle of the central nave. Here are more informations and photos about this vezelay.cef.fr/lumiere.htm

The Basilique Sainte-Marie-Madeleine is a jewel of Romanesque architecture. The nave, seen here, was erected within 20 years, from 1120 on, after the preceding church burnt down, with a loss of more than 1000 lifes. The choir and the transept (erected 1185 - 1215) are already gothic. The relics of Sainte Marie Madeleine, that had been here since around 1050, made Vezelay to a center of pilgrimage (and the starting point of the Via Lemovicensis). But in 1279 dominican monks in Saint-Maximin-la-Sainte-Baume claimed to have found the "real" sarcophagus of Sainte Marie Madeleine. Unfortunately the Dominicans found the patronage by Pope Boniface VIII and Charles d'Anjou - and so Vezelay lost it´s importance. In 1559, during the Wars of Religion, Huguenots looted Vezelay und burnt the relics, that were still in Vezelay. Today there is a golden reliquary in the large, probably carolingian crypt, so obviously at least a part of the relics are still here. Prosper Mérimée and Viollet-le-Duc saved the basilica, that was a ruin in the early 19th century. When Prosper Mérimée started the renovation of the basilica in 1840, he was 26 years old. This was the first task for the young architect.. The basicila has a length of about 100m, even more than 120, when the narthex is added. Hugues Delautre could proof in 1976, that the architects of the 12th century "implanted" a very special feature into the building. Each year at noon of the summer solstice when the sun is in the climax, the light from the south windows casts light spots in the middle of the central nave. Here are more informations and photos about this vezelay.cef.fr/lumiere.htm

...the basilica is breathtaking gigantic...

The Basilique Sainte-Marie-Madeleine in Vezelay is a breathtaking jewel of romanesque architecture. This is probably the church I have visited most often all over France. As a young student at the university back in the early 70s I had done some research about the "Cluny Network". Vezelay played a role in that and I had been here a first time. The relics of Sainte Marie-Magdalene had been venerated here and this was a major center of pilgrimage upto the day, when in 1279 dominican monks in Saint-Maximin-la-Sainte-Baume claimed to have found the "real" sarcophagus of Marie Madeleine. When the pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela had developed into a pan-european phenomenon, Vezelay was a gathering point, as here the Via Lemovicensis started. Bernard of Clairvaux had preached the Second Crusade to a large crowd at Vezelay in 1146. In 1189, the Frankish and English factions of the Third Crusade met here before departing for the Holy Land. The English armee was led by Richard I of England (aka "Richard the Lionheart", "Cœur de Lion"), the Frankish by Philip II of France (aka "Phillipe Auguste") One of the many things, I could not understand as a young student was, how people covered these enormous distances. Many years later, after I had visited Vezelay a couple of times by car, I decided in 2005 to walk to Vezelay. I started (absolutely unexperienced!), in Trier (Treves) - and gave up in Vaucouleurs after about a week. I restarted with some more experince (and less luggage) some weeks later in Vaucouleurs and finally reached Vezelay August 2nd. 2005. Some days after that, I found the office of the "Association des 'Amis et Pèlerins de Saint-Jacques de la Voie de Vézelay" - and another a long story started, that still keeps me walking... www.vezelay-compostelle.eu/

The Basilique Sainte-Marie-Madeleine in Vezelay is a breathtaking jewel of romanesque architecture. This is probably the church I have visited most often all over France. As a young student at the university back in the early 70s I had done some research about the "Cluny Network". Vezelay played a role in that and I had been here a first time. The relics of Sainte Marie-Magdalene had been venerated here and this was a major center of pilgrimage upto the day, when in 1279 dominican monks in Saint-Maximin-la-Sainte-Baume claimed to have found the "real" sarcophagus of Marie Madeleine. When the pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela had developed into a pan-european phenomenon, Vezelay was a gathering point, as here the Via Lemovicensis started. Bernard of Clairvaux had preached the Second Crusade to a large crowd at Vezelay in 1146. In 1189, the Frankish and English factions of the Third Crusade met here before departing for the Holy Land. The English armee was led by Richard I of England (aka "Richard the Lionheart", "Cœur de Lion"), the Frankish by Philip II of France (aka "Phillipe Auguste") One of the many things, I could not understand as a young student was, how people covered these enormous distances. Many years later, after I had visited Vezelay a couple of times by car, I decided in 2005 to walk to Vezelay. I started (absolutely unexperienced!), in Trier (Treves) - and gave up in Vaucouleurs after about a week. I restarted with some more experince (and less luggage) some weeks later in Vaucouleurs and finally reached Vezelay August 2nd. 2005. Some days after that, I found the office of the "Association des 'Amis et Pèlerins de Saint-Jacques de la Voie de Vézelay", and there another a long story started, that still keeps me walking... www.vezelay-compostelle.eu

The central tympanum over the entrance of the Basilique Sainte-Marie-Madeleine leading from the narthex to the nave has three archivolts. The middle archivolt is composed out of 29 round medailons. Here is one of these medailons, depicting a very strange chimare out of a cow or bull - and a fishtail. I have seen mermaids and mermen so far - but this is the first mercow.