Martin M. Miles' photos with the keyword: Coquilles Saint-Jacques

Bilbao is the largest city in the Basque Country and the tenth largest city in Spain, with a population of about 350,000. The metropolitan area has more than 1,000,000 inhabitants. After its foundation in the late 13th century Bilbao was one of the commercial hubs of the Basque Country that enjoyed significant importance in the Crown of Castile. In 1372, John I of Castile named Bilbao a free port and granting it special privileges concerning the trade of iron. This caused Bilbao to become an important port, particularly due to its trade with Flanders and Great Britain. In 1511, Queen Joanna of Castile ordered the creation of the Consulate of the Sea of Bilbao. Under the Consulate's control, the port of Bilbao became one of the most important of the kingdom. The first printing-press was brought to the town in 1577. Here in 1596, the first book in the Basque language was edited. Around 1631, the city was the scenario of a series of revolts against the increased taxation on salt, an event locally known as the "Machinada of the salt". The revolt ended with the execution of several of its leaders. The city had seen a continuous increase of its wealth, especially after the discovery of extensive iron deposits in the surrounding mountains. Despite the Peninsular War and the Carlist Wars, Bilbao prospered during the nineteenth and twentieth centuries, when it rose as the economic centre of the Basque Country. In 1936, during the Spanish Civil War the city suffered its first bombing. The Nationalists threatened further bombing if the city did not give up. In September German planes, in coordination with Francoist forces, dropped at least a hundred bombs on the city. With the war over, Bilbao returned to its industrial development, accompanied by steady population growth. In the 1980s, several factors led to a devastating industrial crisis. Since the mid-1990s, Bilbao has been in a process of deindustrialization and transition to a service economy. It started with the opening of the Bilbao Guggenheim Museum, continuing with the Conference Centre and the Concert Hall and the metro network. Bilbao Cathedral is the episcopal church of the diocese of Bilbao, which was founded in 1949. The Gothic church, which was elevated to basilica minor status in 1819, dates back to a pilgrimage church on the coastal route of the Way of St James. A chapel for pilgrims on the Way of St James already existed before the town was founded in 1300. From 1380, a new parish and collegiate church was built on the site of the chapel. The new building testifies to the rapidly growing importance of the town. The cathedral is inspired by French cathedral Gothic. It is a three-aisled basilica with a central transept. The portal façade and the bell tower were rebuilt between 1885 and 1890. The Gothic Puerta del Angel dates from the early 16th century The archivolts, which flank the pillars, have an ogee overlay at the top , topped with a floret and framing a "Coquilles Saint-Jacques". For this reason the Puerta del Ángel is also called the Puerta de los Peregrinos

With a victory in the Battle of Lenzen in 929, the Saxens made a significant advance into the dominion of the Slavic tribes. Shortly thereafter, the area around Havelberg was conquered and a castle complex was built on the ridge. Otto I continued the conquest of eastern Elbe areas and founded the bishopric of Havelberg as a suffragan diocese of the Archdiocese of Magdeburg. The settlement of a bishopric in Havelberg suggests that the place represented a regional center as early as the 10th century and possibly before. As early as 983, a rebellion broke out among Slavic groups, during which the bishopric of Havelberg was conquered. It was not until 1130 that King Lothar III succeeded. to recapture the place. The city was built in the middle of the 12th century, spatially separate from the cathedral district, on a promontory in a bend in the Havel River, that was made to an island for strategic reasons. The first construction work on the church must have taken place in the middle of the 10th century. A chronicler reports that the church was destroyed during the uprising in 983. Around 1150, under the influence of the local Bishop, a cathedral was built. The basilica was consecrated in 1170. The church was about 70 meters long and 20 meters wide. The Romanesque building consisted of two tower-like crossbars with a three-aisled nave in between. A large triumphal arch visually separated the chancel from the nave. The chancel itself was rectangular and ended in a semi-circular apse. The westwork, appearing defensively closed from the outside, had five round-arched portals to the naves on the inside. A fire in 1279 destroyed significant parts of the cathedral. Using the existing Romanesque components, the basilica was rebuilt in a Gothic style with bricks. The entire conversion was probably not completed until 1330 when the high altar was consecrated. After the Reformation, the cathedral chapter converted to Protestantism in 1561. The bishopric of Havelberg itself was dissolved in 1598 by Elector Joachim Friedrich of Brandenburg. Structural changes then came in the course of the restorations of the 19th century. The appearance of some portals and windows was changed, the floor was renewed and the interior color scheme was changed several times. Finally, between 1907 and 1909, a neo-Romanesque portal was built into the tower and a brick story was added. The rood screen is almost undamaged. It was built around 1400. The diocese could afford the rood screen because the Wilsnack place of pilgrimage to the "Holy Blood", was in the diocese and taxes were due there. One of the great statues of the rood screen is St. James, holding the Coquilles Saint-Jacques as a symbol for the pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostella. The saint carries a girdle book.

A Slavic settlement, that developed into a fortress, existed on a hill above the left bank of the River Oder in the 8th century. In 967 the area was brought into dependence by the Polish Duke Mieszko I. Another hundred years later, a new Wendish settlement was established below the castle, which became an important trading and port centre. The Kingdom of Poland under the dynasty of the Piasts took Szczecin in 1091. Pomerania made itself free again, but in 1119/21 under Duke Boleslaw III, Pomerania was again attacked, devastated and occupied. The latter summoned Bishop Otto of Bamberg to convert the pagan Wends to Christianity. During the "Wendish crusade" the castle was besieged in 1147. The capture was averted by the intervention of the Bishop of Cammin, who had claimed that the inhabitants had already converted to Christianity. In 1173 the Danes captured the castle, destroyed it, but rebuilt it in 1190. The Danes ruled the country until 1227. Meanwhile, Germans had settled next to the Wendish settlement and founded the "Upper Town" and later the "Lower Town". In the Upper Town, the Jacobi Church was built from 1180 to 1187, donated by the merchant Beringer of Bamberg. Barnim I, Duke of Pomerania (= "Barnim the Good") granted the Wendish settlement together with the German suburbs as "oppidum Stetin" the town charter in 1243. It was further promoted through customs remission, trade privileges and fishing rights so that the city strengthened economically. In 1245 the construction of a town hall was allowed. In 1263 the construction of St. Mary's Church began. The construction of a harbour gave the town a further boost, which led to membership in the Hanseatic League in 1278. Duke Otto I officially made Szczecin the residential city of Pomerania in 1309. At the end of the 14th century, Szczecin's economy received another boost when, in the course of the conflict between Poland and the Teutonic Order, the city was granted extensive trading privileges in order to replace Gdansk, which was dominated by the Order. During the Thirty Years' War, the Swedes occupied the town. It remained Swedish even after the Peace of Westphalia. During the Nordic War, Russian troops besieged Szczecin in 1713. With the Peace of Stockholm in 1720, King Frederick William I succeeded in acquiring Szczecin for Prussia. From 1806 to 1813 Szczecin was occupied by the French. After Napoleon's expulsion, Prussia was back and so Szczecin became German in 1871. After the Second World War, the German "Stettin" became the Polish "Szczecin". At that time, only about 80,000 Germans and 6000 Poles still lived in the devastated city. The German population was pushed out and Poles from the former Polish eastern territories settled in. Today Szczecin is a lively town with about 400.000 inhabitants - The Castle of the Dukes of Pomerania was the best-preserved castle of the Griffin dukes, who died out during the Thirty Years' War. It was almost completely destroyed during WWII. It was not until the 1980s that it was reconstructed in the Renaissance style. Now it is one of the largest cultural centers in the West Pomeranian Voivodeship under the polish name Zamek Książąt Pomorskich ("Castle of the Pomeranian Dukes"). Here it is seen from the bridge over the Oder river.

A Slavic settlement, that developed into a fortress, existed on a hill above the left bank of the River Oder in the 8th century. In 967 the area was brought into dependence by the Polish Duke Mieszko I. Another hundred years later, a new Wendish settlement was established below the castle, which became an important trading and port centre. The Kingdom of Poland under the dynasty of the Piasts took Szczecin in 1091. Pomerania made itself free again, but in 1119/21 under Duke Boleslaw III, Pomerania was again attacked, devastated and occupied. The latter summoned Bishop Otto of Bamberg to convert the pagan Wends to Christianity. During the "Wendish crusade" the castle was besieged in 1147. The capture was averted by the intervention of the Bishop of Cammin, who had claimed that the inhabitants had already converted to Christianity. In 1173 the Danes captured the castle, destroyed it, but rebuilt it in 1190. The Danes ruled the country until 1227. Meanwhile, Germans had settled next to the Wendish settlement and founded the "Upper Town" and later the "Lower Town". In the Upper Town, the Jacobi Church was built from 1180 to 1187, donated by the merchant Beringer of Bamberg. Barnim I, Duke of Pomerania (= "Barnim the Good") granted the Wendish settlement together with the German suburbs as "oppidum Stetin" the town charter in 1243. It was further promoted through customs remission, trade privileges and fishing rights so that the city strengthened economically. In 1245 the construction of a town hall was allowed. In 1263 the construction of St. Mary's Church began. The construction of a harbour gave the town a further boost, which led to membership in the Hanseatic League in 1278. Duke Otto I officially made Szczecin the residential city of Pomerania in 1309. At the end of the 14th century, Szczecin's economy received another boost when, in the course of the conflict between Poland and the Teutonic Order, the city was granted extensive trading privileges in order to replace Gdansk, which was dominated by the Order. During the Thirty Years' War, the Swedes occupied the town. It remained Swedish even after the Peace of Westphalia. During the Nordic War, Russian troops besieged Szczecin in 1713. With the Peace of Stockholm in 1720, King Frederick William I succeeded in acquiring Szczecin for Prussia. From 1806 to 1813 Szczecin was occupied by the French. After Napoleon's expulsion, Prussia was back and so Szczecin became German in 1871. After the Second World War, the German "Stettin" became the Polish "Szczecin". At that time, only about 80,000 Germans and 6000 Poles still lived in the devastated city. The German population was pushed out and Poles from the former Polish eastern territories settled in. Today Szczecin is a lively town with about 400.000 inhabitants - For centuries, the fair in honor of St. James has been held around the cathedral. Over they day it is very busy and in the evenings are concerts. Coquilles Saint-Jacques everywhere.

Saint Florentin was a small Gallo-Roman settlement. As it was located on the border of several provinces in early medieval times, it was taken by Visigoths, Francs, Burgondes, Francs and -of course by Normans in 886). It was English in 1356 during the Hundred Years War but was then retaken and completely destroyed by the Burgundians in 1359. Huguenots rampaged during the Wars of Religion in 1562. Saint-Florentin is enclosed by the houses. The first church here, probably part of a fortified castle is from the 13th century. The erection of today´s church started on the hill, where once stood the castle, at the beginning of the 16th century. The construction was interrupted by the Wars of Religion and did not resume until the beginning of the 17th century. Well, the nave was never built, so today there is the choir and the transept. Due to the long time the construction took, the style is late Gothic plus some Renaissance. As the church only has choir and transept it is kind of "short". In the centre a remarkable pretty complete rood screen. Saint Jacques shares his bread with a kid. He is equipped with a pilgrim's staff and wears a "Coquilles Saint-Jacques" on his hat. The friendly people in the "Office de Tourisme" gave me the key to open the church door. Merci beaucoup!

Colomby, known as "Columbeio"in medieval times, has this large Gothic church, dedicated to Saint George. It was built within the 13th/14th century. This statue of Saint Jacques is younger. He holds the bible (or the "Codex Calixtinus"), a pilgrim's staff and wears a large hat with a "Coquilles Saint-Jacques". So we do know where he is heading to.

The Romans built up a castrum around 15BC. Around 110 AD the town that had developed around the camp was given the rights of a colonia, that was named Colonia Ulpia Traiana. The colonia became the second most important commercial post in "Germania Inferior", surpassed only by Colonia Agrippinensis (Cologne). Today Xanten hosts one of the largest archaeological open air museums, built at the site of the Colonia Ulpia Traiana. The first christian buildings may have been oratorys built over a Roman graves. A first church existed 752. A convent developed. As it was believed to have found the graves of Saint Viktor and his companions, all members of the Theban Legion, the places was called "ad sanctos" from which the town´s name "Xanten" derived. The construction of a larger church started, but it got destroyed by Norman invaders, who had hibernated on a near island in the Rhine river, in 863. Bishop Folkmar of Cologne consecrated a new church here in the second half of the 10th century. This church was restored after fires in the 11th and 12th centuries. From 1128 a choir was erected, that was consecrated by Bishop Rainald von Dassel. Between 1180 and 1213 the western facade had been erected upto the third level. The erection of today´s church started in 1263. After 281 years of construction it was finally completed in 1544. St. Viktor, often named "Xantener Dom" ("Xanten Cathedral"), was the center of the convent, that developed to a city in the city. It was completely surrounded by a wall and could be entered only through two gates. The south gate still exists - has this plaque, as the long way to Santiago passed of course through Xanten. The distance from here to Santiago de Compostella is - 2744 kms.

Cazères is another old bastide town. Notre Dame, the towns recently restaurated parish church, was erected 13th/14th century on the banks of the River Garonne. Though the "official" Via Tolosana, that I walked some years ago, runs further north (Toulouse-Auch), there were many other ways, the pilgrims could choose. Cazères was one of the places along the Via Garona, where it was easy to cross the river. Cazères had a "hopital" and a "confrérie" to support the pilgrims. Today this is the "SOCIÉTÉ de SAINT JACQUES". The members have niceley decorated the side chapel. There may be even a procession, as here are two banners. ultreia.pagesperso-orange.fr/confcaz.htm

Cazères is another old bastide town. Notre Dame, the towns recently restaurated parish church, was erected 13th/14th century on the banks of the River Garonne. Though the "official" Via Tolosana, that I walked some years ago, runs further north (Toulouse-Auch), there were many other ways, the pilgrims could choose. Cazères was one of the places along the Via Garona, where it was easy to cross the river. Cazères had a "hopital" and a "confrérie" to support the pilgrims. Today this is the "SOCIÉTÉ de SAINT JACQUES". The members have niceley decorated the side chapel. ultreia.pagesperso-orange.fr/confcaz.htm

Somebody left a message under a large "Coquilles Saint-Jacques" on foot of the old cross in La Frédière. A prayer? A plea? I did not open the letter, as it was probably adressed to someone above.

The "Via Turonensis" is the "GR655". This "Coquille Saint-Jacques" is screwed to a wall in Fenioux.

This church was a big surprise for me. It is visible from outside, that there is something strange, as the tower is just too massive.. It is not a "tower". This an octagonal chapel, that dates back to the 9th century. This is a Carolingian structure, related to Charlemagne´s octagonal "Palatine Chapel" in Aachen (= "Aix-la-Chapelle") and the oratory in Germigny-des-Prés. There is no town near. The chapel is placed "in the middle of nowhere" next to the small river Isle. Many human bones were found during excavations, that may be even older than the rotunda. Was there a battle? Was there a cemetery? A "hospital"? Or was this a baptisterium? It is claimed here, that this is not the only such building in the Dordogne area, but in France! A small portal opens just behind the altar. I am not sure about the slightly pointed archivolt, but the flanking sculptures and the pair of "Coquilles Saint-Jacques" are probably 19th century (or even younger).

The GR653 (aka "Via Tolosana") passes though areas, where cattle, sheep and even horses roam pretty free. There are gates for the walkers open - and close. This one was probably done by the same artisan, who had created the iron gate for the cementery in Jouers. He really liked the pilgrims!

I had left the main road and approached Accous in the early morning. Passing through Jouers, I found in the center of the hamlet, the small chapel "Saint-Saturnin" and an old graveyard. Leaving the graveyard, I noticed, that the artisan, who had created the iron gate, sympathized with pilgrims.

Somebody made quite an effort to give the pilgrims a bright smile! The "chemin" turns right here. The sign tells, that to Lacommande may take 1h35, to reach Oloron-Ste-Marie will take 6.00h. The "Via Tolosana" runs through the vineyards of the "Domaine de Cinquau". The white wines of the Jurançon (AOC) are produced here.