Martin M. Miles' photos with the keyword: ass

Dienville is a village (pop. ~850) on the Aube River. The parish church of St. Quentin, built in the 15th and 16th centuries in flamboyant Gothic. An ass

Conques is one of the magical places, I cannot pass. Every time I am in the area, I just have to take the detour, stop and see it again. Over centuries Conques was a popular stop for all pilgrims travelling the Via Podiensis and it still is. It is a treat after having crossed the harsh Aubrac. I still remember my feelings, when I reached Conques in 2008 on my hike, that had started weeks before in Geneva. A tiny convent existed here already in the 8th century. This grew into a very successful monastery, after the relics of St. Foy arrived in Conques through theft in 866. The relics were stolen by a monk from Conques, who had posed as a loyal monk in Agen for years. The arrival of the relics of St. Foy caused the pilgrimage route to shift to Conques. As the existing church was too small for all the pilgrims, a new, much larger church had to be constructed. It was completed by the end of the 11th century. As a large pilgrim´s church, it had an ambulatory with five radiating chapels. A century later galleries were added over the aisle and the roof was raised over the transept and choir. The "Prieuré des Prémontrés de Conques", located next to the church, offers accommodations to weary pelerins, a traditions followed here that is centuries old. After having had dinner all together, the pilgrims will have a prayer in the church, followed (mostly) by an organ concert during which they may circulate on the galleries. Later they will all gather in front of the church and listen to an introduction to the complex tympanum, given by one of the monks. In case a pelerin arrives with an ass, he can "park" the animal next to the apse.

La Chaise-Dieu was founded in 1043 by Robert de Turlande. It was named "Casa Dei", from which La Chaise-Dieu developed. From the 11th to the 13th century, the abbey experienced rapid and significant development. When the founder died in 1067, already 300 monks lived here. In the Auvergne La Chaise-Dieu gained importance similar to that of the Burgundian Cluny Abbey. The abbey received many donations from noble families and administered 42 daughter monasteries. Popes who visited the abbey include Urban II, Calixt II, Alexander III. and Innocent II. In 1342, Pierre Roger, who had lived as a monk in La Chaise-Dieu, became Pope in Avignon under the name Clement VI. He financed a new building of the abbey church, in which he was finally buried. The building was completed in 1378 under the pontificate of Gregory XI, a nephew of Clement VI. Since 1516 La Chaise-Dieu, like most other French abbeys, became "in commendam" so the commendatory abbot drew the revenue of the monastery but without fulfilling the duties of the abbot or even residing at the monastery. Calvinist troops looted the abbey in August 1562. After most of the monastery buildings were destroyed by fire in 1695, they were rebuilt by the monks in the decades that followed. In 1786, Cardinal de Rohan, who was involved in the "Affair of the Diamond Necklace" was exiled to La Chaise-Dieu. While the abbey had 40 monks at that time, religious life ended at the beginning of the French Revolution. La Chaise-Dieu is known for the tapestries, once woven to embellish the monks´ choir. They were commissioned by Jacques de Saint-Nectaire and were woven by a Flemish workshop between 1501 and 1518. The collection includes 14 tapestries of which two are different and may have been ordered by the abbot for his personal use. The 12 other tapestries constitute a complete continuation of the Annunciation to the Last Judgment. An inventory prior to the Revolution mentions 18 tapestries, so four tapestries have therefore disappeared. The tapestries were only exhibited during major liturgical feasts. They were rolled up and kept during the troubles during the Wars of Religion and the Revolution. In 2013 the tapestries were removed. They got restored and returned to the abbey in July 2019. I was lucky to see them in August 2019. The Nativity scene is seen in the centre, left is "Moses and the Burning Bush" (Exodus 3.1), to the right "Aaron with the censer" (Numbers 16:46)

The name of the first known pastor of the parish was "Elbertus de Balleve" in 1202. The church may have existed at that time, at least the main structure. The construction of the church probably began already end of the 10th / early 11th century, but most of the comparably large romanesque hall-church, with a nave, two aisles and a remarkable apse, was done later. The oldest church of this type (north of the Alps!) is the Bartholomew Chapel in Paderborn (100kms northeast), a masterpiece, created by "graecos operarios" (greek workers). So when this church in Balve got consecrated, this was still a sensationel new layout. The romanesque church (still) has four portals. It may be, that the greenish sandstone used, came from Anroechte (50kms northeast), a town between Soest and Paderborn. Quarries in Annroechte still exist today. Seen here in the middle are Mary and St. John under the Cross. Left a nativity scene. Mary on the ground, ox and ass above and Joseph wearing a "Jew´s hat", sitting to the right. This scene has parallels to a carving in Ense/Bremen (25kms north). The right part is very weathered. My first impression proved to be wrong, after I found a copy of "Bau- und Kunstdenkmale von Westfalen", volume 18 ("Kreis Arnsberg"). This book, published in 1906, seems to have the oldest photographs taken here in 1890. More than a hundred years ago, it was obvious, that an angel (note the wings / right) is approaching a person: the Annunciation. - The mountainous "Sauerland", part of the Duchy of Westphalia is known for witch-hunts in the 16th/17th century. Under the terror-regime of barbarous prosecutor Kaspar Reinhard 280 people were burned at the stakes in and around Balve between 1628 and 1630. Some villagers even tried to assassinate him, but he narrowly escaped. The failed assassinators were executed by dismemberment. The believe in witchcraft stayed stable in the Duchy for long time. In 1695 a 12 year old girl was executed in Olpe (50kms south), the last execution took place in Winterberg (60kms east) in 1728. - Green stones from Anroechte: www.anroechter-stein.de/

Milan is the city capital of the Lombardy and the second most populous city in Italy after Rome. Known during Roman times as "Mediolanum" it was the place, where in 313 Constantine I and Licinius met and "signed" the "Edict of Milan", giving Christianity a legal status within the Roman empire. At the end of the Roman empire Milan was besieged by the Visigoths in 402, looted by the Huns in 452, and taken by the Ostrogoths in 539. Only 30 years later is belonged to the Kingdom of the Lombards, until in 774 Charlemagne defeated the Langobards and added Milan to the Carolingian empire. During Barbarossa´s (Frederik I) "Italian Campaigns" Milan was taken and destroyed to a great extent. The "Basilica of Sant'Ambrogio" is much older and was not destroyed by Barbarossa´s troops. It is one of the most ancient churches in Milan, built by St. Ambrose in 379–386, outside the city of Milan on the site of a cemetery, where the martyrs of the Roman persecutions had been buried. The first name of the church was "Basilica Martyrum". Ambrose, born into a noble family about 340 in (present-day) Trier (Germany), was governor of Liguria and Emilia for two years before he became the Bishop of Milan in 374 by popular acclamation. He was a staunch opponent of Arianism. Only very few traces of the first church can still be found, as in the centuries after its construction, the basilica underwent numerous restorations and reconstructions. The current Romanesque church, mostly built in brickwork, was begun around 1080. In 789, a Benedictine monastery was established here. The canons of the basilica, however, retained their own community. So two separate communities shared the basilica. In the 11th century, the canons adopted orders and became Canons Regular. From then on two separate monastic orders following different rules lived in the basilica. The canons were in the northern building, the cloister of the canons, while the monks were in the two southern buildings. The two towers symbolize the division in the basilica. The 9th century Torre dei Monaci ("Tower of the Monks") tower was used by the monks. However, the canons did not have a bell tower and were not allowed to ring bells until they finished the Canons' bell tower in the 12th Century. This tower got two additional levels in 1889. In 1943 the basilica got severely damaged by bombings. It took a decade to rebuilt and reconstruct the church. The ambo stands on the left side of the nave. From here the monks and canons read the Gospel. The ambo, supported by nine slender ancient columns, was built over a 4th century sarcophagus, known as "Stilicho's Sepulchre", between 1130 and 1143. When the roof of the basilica collapsed in 1196, the ambo got severely damaged, but it got rebuilt already in 1201. There are so many details all around the ambo.. A donkey playing harp is a very common icon in France (standing for foolishness/idiocy). Above the donkey is a griffin biting a dog biting a deer, while on the right a fightened hare watches the scene. In the triangle above a man fights a lion.

Milan is the city capital of the Lombardy and the second most populous city in Italy after Rome. Known during Roman times as "Mediolanum" it was the place, where in 313 Constantine I and Licinius met and "signed" the "Edict of Milan", giving Christianity a legal status within the Roman empire. At the end of the Roman empire Milan was besieged by the Visigoths in 402, looted by the Huns in 452, and taken by the Ostrogoths in 539. Only 30 years later is belonged to the Kingdom of the Lombards, until in 774 Charlemagne defeated the Langobards and added Milan to the Carolingian empire. During Barbarossa´s (Frederik I) "Italian Campaigns" Milan was taken and destroyed to a great extent. Only a few large structures survived the fury. One of them was the Basilica di San Lorenzo (see previous uploads). The Basilica di Sant'Eustorgio, located only about 500 ms south of the Basilica di San Lorenzo, existed already since centuries at that time, as it was founded in the 4th century. The name refers to Eustorgius I, the bishop of Milan (~350). It is attributed to Eustorgius to have translated the relics of the Magi to the city from Constantinople in 344, a present of Roman Emperor Constantius II (337-361). This legend came up in the 12th century, when the "new" Basilica di Sant'Eustorgio was erected in Romanesque style. When Milano was sacked by Frederick Barbarossa, the relics of the Magi were appropriated and subsequently taken to Cologne by his close advisor Rainald of Dassel, Archbishop of Cologne. Actually the relics are still in the Cologne Cathedral, where the are kept in the "Shrine of the Three Kings". Some fragments of the holy bones were sent back from Cologne to Milano in 1903. Milano had been a center of pilgrimage over a long time, but since 1164 the relics of the Magi attracted a stream of pilgrims to Cologne, what was very important for that city. From the 13th century the church was the main Milanese seat of the Dominican Order, who promoted its rebuilding - and radically altered it with the construction of the south transept, the main crossings and within the 15th century by adding chapels (for noble families). The alterations of the 17th and 18th century were elimimnated by the restyling work of the 19th century "recreating" the original Lombard Romanesque forms. Some of the old Romanesque capitals still exist. Here is a lion, killing an ass.

Augustodunum (today Autun) was founded during the reign of Augustus, after whom it was named. It was an important settlement, the Roman theather, partly unearthed, could seat about 15.000 people, there is a Roman temple, walls... But it is the Cathédrale Saint-Lazare and the wonderful carvings, that made me return again and again. There had been a church here earlier, that was just too small, when Autun became a center of pilgrimage, after relics of St. Lazarus were kept here since about 970. Just like Vezelay, 90kms north, where the relics of St. Lazarus´ sister St. Maria Magdalena were kept at that time. In 1120 it was decided to construct this larger and more suitable cathedral. At that time this construction was influenced by Cluny III, that was a little older. After severe damage during the Hundred Years' War, rebuilding and remodeling the romanesque structure started. The tympanum, a masterpiece, signed by Gislebertus, survived accidently pretty undamaged, as it was hidden under thick plaster for many decades. Many other carvings, carved by Gislebertus (or his workshop) are in and outside the cathedral. Balaam's Talking Donkey Numbers 22, 21-31 "Balaam got up in the morning, saddled his donkey and went with the Moabite officials. But God was very angmry when he went, and the angel of the LORD stood in the road to oppose him. Balaam was riding on his donkey, and his two servants were with hi. When the donkey saw the angel of the LORD standing in the road with a drawn sword in his hand, it turned off the road into a field. Balaam beat it to get it back on the road. Then the angel of the LORD stood in a narrow path through the vineyards, with walls on both sides. When the donkey saw the angel of the LORD, it pressed close to the wall, crushing Balaam’s foot against it. So he beat the donkey again. Then the angel of the LORD moved on ahead and stood in a narrow place where there was no room to turn, either to the right or to the left. 27 When the donkey saw the angel of the LORD, it lay down under Balaam, and he was angry and beat it with his staff. Then the LORD opened the donkey’s mouth, and it said to Balaam, “What have I done to you to make you beat me these three times?” Balaam answered the donkey, “You have made a fool of me! If only I had a sword in my hand, I would kill you right now.” The donkey said to Balaam, “Am I not your own donkey, which you have always ridden, to this day? Have I been in the habit of doing this to you?” “No,” he said. Then the LORD opened Balaam’s eyes, and he saw the angel of the LORD standing in the road with his sword drawn. So he bowed low and fell facedown."

Avy is a small a village just about 5kms south of Pons. The parish church Notre-Dame d'Avy was built in the 12th century in the Romanesque style, typical for the Saintonge. Severely damaged during the Hundred Years' War the church was rebuilt later in Gothic style. This is the church I have visited most often of all small churches in the Saintonge - and was always impressed. I remember the day, sitting in front of the facade and counting the Elders of the Apocalypse (outer archivolt). Here are 36 Elders (the "Book of Revelation" only knows 24). Later I learned, that this number may have been a status symbol. In Saintes (Abbaye aux Dames) I found even 54 Elders. In Aulnay are 31 Elders.. But this time I did not just sit in front of the facade, counting Elders and Angels, this time I walked around and used the binoculars to see "younger" the part (and the tower) that got built just after the Hundred Years' War. I found these three sculptures up on the roof, near the tower´s base. An ass, carrying a sack, a damaged (sitting?) person and a pig. I remember having seen similar sculptures in Rosheim and Guebwiller (Alsace) more than 800 ks northwest.

The oldest part of the parish church is a funerary tower (Tour Funéraire). It is difficult to date the tower, as the tower got obviously renovated and reconstructed before the Romanesque church was added within the 12th century. Most scholars date the tower to the early 11th century, but archaeologists talk about a building here existing already within the 4th/5th century. Anyway - here was the tomb of Saint Restitut, patron saint for people having poor eyesight and even Louis XI (aka "Louis the Prudent", "Universal Spider") once came on pilgrimage Saint-Restitut. The legend tells, that in his younger days Saint Restitut´s name was Sidonius. He was blind... John 9:1-7 "As he went along, he saw a man blind from birth. (...........) After saying this, he spit on the ground, made some mud with the saliva, and put it on the man’s eyes. “Go,” he told him, “wash in the Pool of Siloam”. So the man went and washed, and came home seeing." The name was changed to Restitutus then. He became a disciple of Jesus and later left the Holy Land with the Thee Marys, Lazaraus et al. on the boat with "neither sail nor rudder." They all reached Saintes Maries de la Mer, where the group split. Restitutus walked up the valley of the Rhone to become the first bishop of Tricastin. He resided in St-Paul-Trois-Châteaux - and got buried here. The nave of the church, added to the tower in the 12th century. One wall of the tower is now part of the church, so the frieze here, that runs all around it, is much better conserved here, than outside (see previous uploads). Here is an ass playing the harp, a pig or dog juggling - and a palm tree.

The cloister of Saint-Trophime forms a rectangle 28m x 25m. The eastern and northern sides were built in romanesque style 1160 - 1180. Shortly after that all constructions came to halt, due to an economic decline of Arles. New orders like the Trinitarians and the Knights Templar had settled in Arles - and caused competition. It took more than a century to restart the building process, so the southern and western sides were built erected during the 14th and 15th century in gothic style. Balaam's Talking Donkey Numbers 22, 21-31 "Balaam got up in the morning, saddled his donkey and went with the Moabite officials. But God was very angry when he went, and the angel of the LORD stood in the road to oppose him. Balaam was riding on his donkey, and his two servants were with him. When the donkey saw the angel of the LORD standing in the road with a drawn sword in his hand, it turned off the road into a field. Balaam beat it to get it back on the road. Then the angel of the LORD stood in a narrow path through the vineyards, with walls on both sides. When the donkey saw the angel of the LORD, it pressed close to the wall, crushing Balaam’s foot against it. So he beat the donkey again. Then the angel of the LORD moved on ahead and stood in a narrow place where there was no room to turn, either to the right or to the left. 27 When the donkey saw the angel of the LORD, it lay down under Balaam, and he was angry and beat it with his staff. Then the LORD opened the donkey’s mouth, and it said to Balaam, “What have I done to you to make you beat me these three times?” Balaam answered the donkey, “You have made a fool of me! If only I had a sword in my hand, I would kill you right now.” The donkey said to Balaam, “Am I not your own donkey, which you have always ridden, to this day? Have I been in the habit of doing this to you?” “No,” he said. Then the LORD opened Balaam’s eyes, and he saw the angel of the LORD standing in the road with his sword drawn. So he bowed low and fell facedown."

The "Iglesia de Santa Maria" was built in the second half of the 12th century. From the little hill, the shoreline can be seen. The "Camino del Norte" (aka "Camino de la Costa"), the oldest known "camino" to Santiago de Compostela run along the northern coast, as moorish troops roamed the inland. Even in the 12th century, when this church was erected, this way was popular as the pilgrims could visit the Monastery of Santo Toribio de Liébana. As the largest part of the "True Cross" (aka "Lignum Crucis") was venerated in that monastery, it had the privilege of perpetual indulgences. The "Iglesia de Santa Maria" is known for some extraordinary Romanesque carvings. Some are under the roof of the apse.

Notre-Dame was built from white, local stones within the 12th century and got remodeled and enlarged at least three times, before the 19th-renovation startet. Actually parts of the transept are even older, dated to the 11th century. Three domes span over the nave. This church is known for the capitals. Here is one of them, depicting a (dancing?) pig (note the tail!), an ass, a cock, (a bit exotic), and a crocodil. Is this a croc? It does have the typical long snout, but how should a carver within the 12th century have knowlegde about this reptile. Did he return from a cruisade and saw crocodiles in Egypt? Or was this capital created and added during the 19th-century-renovation - and only is about 150 years old? I could not find out. In case, you do not "recognise" that croc - just see the next upload.

"Saint-Pierre d'Aulnay" is a church outside of Aulnay, in the center of an old graveyard. The setting has not changed for centuries. For the pilgrims of the 12th century this church was a major halt - and it still is for all the tourists... A predecessing church „Saint-Pierre-de-la-Tour“ had been here, that, when the pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostella got more and more popular, was obviously to small, as Aulnay was conveniently situated between Poitiers and Saintes on the Via Turonensis. A new, larger church was needed, so the place was handed over to the chapter of the cathedral in Poitiers. The canons then probably planned this church, that was erected from about 1130/1140 on. "Saint-Pierre d'Aulnay" is a gem of the "style saintongeais". For Peter Strafford ("Romanesque Churches Of France") this is "one of the best examples of late Romanesque architecture in what used to be Aquitaine". Saint-Pierre´s "South Porch" is what attracts busloads of tourists to stop in Aulnay. And they are right.The "South Porch" is mindblowing. The most outer archivolt is the most spectacular one. So far the icons were somehow in an expectable "christian tradition" (Elders, Saints), but here mythical beasts and fantastic hybrid creatures come to life. Some of these chimerae probably derive from medieval Bestiary, while others seem to come straight from a drug related nightmare. The ass playing the harp with the hoof is a theme, that can often be found on medieval churches. It is believed that this icon is a symbol of ignorance. Here is an article on this theme, tracking it back thousends of years: artsymbol.wordpress.com/category/romanesque-symbolism/