Day 8

Thorsmork could use a better map, frankly.

Amusingly, while showing me this map at the counter at Volcano Huts and describing the route I should take around the point and back to Valahnjúkur, the desk clerk mentioned in passing that the route to Rjupnafjell is definitely not safe to do solo. (She didn't know I had done it the day before. It was safer than any 14er I've hiked, but her comment still made me feel pretty manly.)