
2010 GR70 / Chemin Stevenson
Robert Louis Stevenson published "Travels with a Donkey in the Cévennes" in 1879, after a hike from Le Monastier-sur-Gazeille to Saint-Jean-du-Gard. I tried to retrace the route (today "GR70"), but had to modify it and from time to time walk the road. It was way to early in the year. Snow in the higher regions - closed hotels all the way. I could only do the hike, as I was accompanied - and was in…
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Le Puy en Velay
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..reached Le Puy en Velay in the late afternoon. The Virgin on the left - the immense cathedral on the right. Noticed some snow in the mountains in the background...
Monastier-sur-Gazeille
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The facade of the former abbey-church Saint Chaffre du Monastier-sur-Gazeille.
Due to a misinterpretation of the "balisage" (on that rainwater pipe) it took me an
hour or so, to find the point, where Stevenson started together with his donkey
Modestine in 1878. It was only about 200m away.
Monastier-sur-Gazeille
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.. found the commemorative plaque. Here Robert Louis Stevenson and his
donkey Modestine started 22. September 1878. Well, let´s say, here they left
Monastier-sur-Gazeille and walked down into the valley of the Gazeille. Today
it marks (as well) the entrance to the parking lot of a little supermarket.
Goudet
Goudet - Château de Beaufort
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... the ruins of the Château de Beaufort. Out of the really great number of
châteaus lining the Loire, this is number 2. Number 1 is in Arlempdes,
about 5kms upstream.
Goudet - The valley of the Loire
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Looking back to the valley of the Loire. On the right side Goudet is visible, the bridge over the Loire - and right - the ruins of the Château de Beaufort.
Costaros
Landos
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..had a snowshower underway, so I changed from the "Chemin Stevenson" to the "Voie Régordane", the old pilgim´s way to St. Gilles. Taking this shortcut I reached Landos via Amargiers.
Arquejols - the horses
Arquejols - the viaduct
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..walking down the valley - there was a gigantic railroad viaduct. Meanwhile I learned, that the "Viaduc d'Arquejols" has a height of 45m and is 209m long. Completed in 1908. So when Stevenson passed through, there were just the horses...
Approachung Pradelles
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...the storm Xynthia, that hit this area end of February 2010, had done great damage to the forests in the Auvergne. The aftermath of the storm forced me to some detours..
Pradelles
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Actually I could not find out, why Pradelles is one of the most beautiful villages in France ("les plus beaux villages"). Maybe I was just too tired. Here is a view from the back of the (19th century) church facing south. On the right is a part of the "Lac de Naussac". A couple of minutes later it started to snow again.
Langogne
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...looking out of the window early morning. Bad surprise! It was snowing again. After a long breakfast mood and weather had improved...
Langogne - St. Gervais et Protais
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...the very interesting romanesque church, built within the 12. century, and clearly visible altered a couple of times over the time..
Langogne - St. Gervais et Protais
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.. inside the church are some fascinating capitals. One of them shows "Luxuria", feeding the snakes.
Langogne - The market hall
Saint-Flour-de-Mercoire
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..a very modern version of Stevenson´s donkey Modestine. Seen outside a theatre (!!) in Saint-Flour-de-Mercoire...
Near Fouzillac - Menhir Pascalou
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..still some frost in the shadow of the Menhir Pascalou. 1878 Stevenson
stayed here a night "à la belle étoile" - under the stars. He had bad weather
conditions that night..
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