.:madworm:.'s photos with the keyword: illumination

For ME, right now at least ;-) The ONLY pin that was on its correct position was MOSI on pin #4. All others were somewhere else.

Now I need to get hold of the Nichia LEDs! 20 lumen per piece and more than 100lm/W.

Top: 4 CFL tubes, one not visible on the left side. The long ones consume 14W, the short ones 8W. The single LED bar in the bottom half takes 3W. Judging from the brightness of the thing and the brightness of the rear wall, I think I could get the same overall illumination with about 6 LED modules, equaling in 18W + power supply losses. But good switchers are quite efficient. This would be a 15V system. I'm still waiting for a batch of individual 0.5W LEDs in warm/cold white. They'll get a chance to show off as well. If they win the race, I'll be able to use a spare 5V, 2.6A switching power supply for these for the beginning. I've checked it for its stand by power requirements and they were a bit high. 1W standby losses would cost me about 6€ per year. Efficient switchers with low standby losses can be had for 12 to 20€. I've already got one (5-12V, 2.25A) and my power monitor couldn't detect any difference whether it was plugged in or not.

30V > 3V

Both types are running at approximately 80mA.

This contraption is quite useful for extreme macro shots.

These LEDs are about the size of a match head.

0.99€ down the drain. Nichia NSSL157T-H3.

The tiny LED is a Nichia NSSW157T running at 80mA max. It's supposed to spew out 30lm with above 100lm/W and heats up close to untouchable without PCB contact. It's also equipped with an additional diode (0.7V drop) for reverse voltage protection of the LED chip. The G4 replacement PCB uses a PT4115 buck controller, 68µH inductor, diode, electrolytic capacitor and a bridge rectifier. It is not as bright as the 20W halogen light bulb and much bluer, but my goal is to starve my utilities company and save every single mWh I can find ;-)

30V > 3V

More light for macro shots - or so I hope. The center hole (28mm) should be wide enough to make this ring just slip over the camera's extended objective and bring the light to where it is needed. I may have to do some grinding and smoothing of the inside to get a good fit and prevent scratching the objective - which is made of silver painted plastic. I was able to squeeze a little controller board inside the cutout area. No fancy constant current control, just a lot of resistors, a mosfet for PWM control and an ATtiny13 with up/down buttons. It's meant to run with 5V DC. Initially I had the idea to add a little boost converter to make it run with 3V (2x AA cells) or a LiPo, but that was scrapped.

It must have been a huge brain-fart that made me believe I would have to trash these boards, only because of a wrong ISP header pinout. Or maybe it was too early in the morning already. Adapters are soooo nice ;-) It turns out that I wouldn't have had to pull all the chips off the pcb. The ATtiny2313 has 1k resistors on ALL I/O lines, so it survives shorted pins. Only the LED driver got fried, as it lives on the SPI lines as well, but without those resistors... Now I only must remember to always use that cable.

Now I need to get hold of the Nichia LEDs! 20 lumen per piece and more than 100lm/W.

I've shrunk down the fat capacitors to just 1000µF each, which made the board shorter a bit. I've also added larger headers + 1k series resistors (all 0603 now) for ALL I/O lines of the micro, so I can probe effortlessly without shorting anything. There are 5 new status LEDs as well. The main LEDs are now from Nichia and only need about 50mA per channel to get 20 lumen per piece. Total output should be about 600 lumen.