Jaap van 't Veen's photos with the keyword: Italian Riviera

The Chiesa della Purificazione di Maria Vergine (Church of the Purification of the Virgin Mary) is the parish church of Apricale. The church - built in the 13th century - is located in the heart of the centre of the perched medieval village. The church was restored several times and today it appears in baroque style with a neo-Romanesque façade. The interior is composed of three naves divided in two rows of four pillars each. Inside the vaults, in 1904, painter Leonida Martini frescoed floral patterns and images of saints. The bell tower of the church is remarkable with a bicycle facing upwards. This contemporary artwork of Sergio Bianco symbolizes the power of non-gravity. I must admit that I had not seen the artwork during my visit. But a photo of Nora Caracci pointed me to this unusual tower.

The first written documents about Apricale date back to 1267. The history of Apricale, however, officially begins about two centuries before with the foundation of the castle, wanted by the accounts of Ventimiglia. The place, chosen as a defensive outpost, is called Apricus; around the castle the village develops. In 1270 Apricale entered the fiefdom of the Doria of Dolceacqua, passing definitively into the sphere of influence of the Republic of Genoa. In the 18th century, Genoa’s difficulties are reflected in Apricale: wars and economic crisis, but also frosts, droughts and famines make it the darkest century in the history of the village, until the French occupation in 1794. In 1815, according to the dictates of the Congress of Vienna, it became part of the kingdom of Sardinia. Apricale comes from “apricus”, which in Latin means “exposed to the sun”, and in fact, the village is all built on the southern side of the hill. Coming from the Nervia Valley the village seems to be a waterfall of houses surrounded by forested hills. The little mountain village itself is a labyrinth of houses and alleyways.

Archaeological findings testify that the area where Rocchetta stands today has been continuously inhabited since Roman times. During medieval times it was a place through which pilgrims passed on their way from Lower Piedmont through the Nervia Valley: many of the religious buildings in the area served as hospices. Politically it belonged to an important strategic area called the “County of Nice”. The history Rochetta Nervina is one of a borderland, constantly harassed by fighting and raids between its inhabitants and its neighbours, particularly the Dorias of Dolceacqua . Today Rocchetta Nervina - with less than 300 inhabitants - still has its medieval appearance, located on the banks of the river Barbaira. The little village is well known for its pools of water (laghetti di Rochetta) in that river (PiP3).

The Chiesa Parrocchiale di Sant’ Antonio Abate (Parish Church of Sant'Antonio Abbot) in Dolceacqua is dating back to the 15th century. Very little remains of its original appearance, as it has undergone numerous interventions over the centuries. Until 1800 it was encompassed by civil buildings. The bell tower was built in 1621, using the watchtower of the city walls. The church was later renovated in baroque style and is adorned with rich interior decorations and numerous works of art. Among other things it houses the important polyptych of Santa Devota

Dolceacqua (“sweet water”) is situated inland about 10 km from the Ligurian coast along the Nervia river. The town was first mentioned in the year of 1151, when counts from Ventimiglia started the construction of a castle in the hills. The castle was further expanded along with the village in the next centuries. Dolceacqua is divided into two areas by the river Nervia: the old village known as Terra and Borgo which developed later. The 15th century Ponte Vecchio spans the river and connects the two sections of the village. (Claude Monet visited here twice \and the bridge and village were the subjects of his paintings). Doria Castle towers high above the maze of narrow streets and alleys of Terra . The Dorias were the last and most famous ruling family of the area. The castle was of course used for defense and to monitor the goings-on of the valley as well as being used as a hideout. It has recently undergone reconstruction since it was in a state of almost complete abandonment.

The Hanbury Botanical Gardens (Giardini Botanici Hanbury) have their origin in 1867, when Thomas Hanbury bought the ancient Palazzo Orengo and the adjacent pieces of land, in order to transform them into a garden of exotic plants. Half of the gardens are cultivated with (sub)tropical plants; the other half is occupied by a Mediterranean self-vegetation. In the garden one can discover for instance agaves, aloes, succulent plants, cactuses and citrus and exotic fruits trees. After some years the garden was well-known because of its richness in plants and the importance of its collection. The Hanbury Botanical Gardens extends on a surface of 18 hectares, nearby the frontier between Italy and France. In 1960 the garden - which was seriously damaged during World War II - was sold to the Italian state. In 1987 the management of the garden was entrusted to the University of Genua. In 2001 the Hanbury Botanical Gardens became also a nature reserve. We had read many positive reviews about the gardens, but honestly, we were quite disappointed. It made a rather 'withered' impression on us.

Chiesa di Cristo Salvatore (Church of Christ the Saviour) is an Russian orthodox church, dating back to the year 1915. It was built for the Russian community that followed Tsarina Maria Aleksandrovna (wife of Tsar Alexander II) to San Remo in 1906; the foundation stone was laid in 1912. In that period about one thousand Russians lived in the town. The Chiesa di Cristo Salvatore - with its onion domes and heavenly pale-blue interior - was designed by Alexei Shchusev, later finished by local engineer Pietro Agosti. Icons and murals of Christian saints line the interior. The appearance of the temple imitates the style of typical 17th-century Moscow churches. It has five domes, three altars and a belfry. The church is still used today by the Orthodox community of San Remo and is one of the landmarks of San Remo.

Castelvecchio di Rocca Barbena is a quiet village located in the green hills north-west of Albenga in the western part of Liguria. The small village has a very well preserved medieval centre with a maze of narrow alleys and steep dark stairs. Stone houses and their ancient architectural features give the village an unspoiled character. Castello dei Clavesana - dating back to the 9th and 10th century - is a castle overlooking the village from the hill behind. The castle was damaged during a siege by an army from Genoa in 1672, since that time it has been in its current ruined condition. Castelvecchio di Rocca Barbena developed from the 11th century onwards around the outside of the castle walls. The Church of Our Lady of the Assumption is a very simple small church that was originally built in the 15th century, and then substantially altered in the 17th century to incoporate baroque style elements. Castelvecchio di Rocca Barbena is one of the borghi pui bella d'Italia (one of the most beautiful villages in Italy. We visited Castelvecchhio di Rocca Barbena on a Sunday morning. During our vist we didn’t see a single inhabitant and that made the village look like a ghost town.

Borgio Verezzi is a little village on the Riviera di Ponente, which has two distinct areas: a beach resort along the coast of the Mediterranean Sea called Borgio and the medieval village of Verezzi in the hinterland on a hill. There are actually four separate hamlets that make up Verezzi: Crosa, Piazza, Poggio, and Roccaro. The centre of the medieval village of Verezzi is Piazzetta Sant'Agostino, surrounded by ancient buildings and the 14th century Church of Sant'Agostino. Borgio Verezzi is listed as one of the most beautiful villages in Italy ( il borghi pui bella d'Italia ). During our visit, a wedding ceremony took place in the small church, so we could not take a look inside.

The Abbey of Santa Maria di Finalpia is an ancient centre of Catholic worship in Finale Ligure, located in the hamlet of Finalpia on the banks of the Sciusa stream. The church and the Benedictine abbey of Santa Maria constitute one of the most important monastic centers in Liguria in religious and artistic terms. The origins of the abbey date back to the 12th century, when the presence of a small chapel held by the Abbey of San Quintino di Spigno in the area is mentioned. The current monastery building is dating back to the 16th century. The church was erected only between 1724 and 1728, based on a design by Girolamo Veneziano. The church has an interesting façade in Baroque style with stuccoes, columns and round windows. The importance of the medieval church is testified by the majestic bell tower. The interior is embellished with numerous works of art of a classical religious nature, dating back to the 14th-20th centuries.

The Basilica di S. Giovanni Battista (Basilica of Saint John the Baptist) is located in the center of Finale Ligure. It is considered being one of the most beautiful Baroque churches in the region. The construction of the church started in 1619; fifty-five years the church was inaugurated. The design is usually attributed to Gian Lorenzo Bernini, but most probably designed by local architects, who did work in Bernini's style. The façade, rich in artistic emblems and stained-glass windows, is the work of a local architect and was completed in 1762. The dome of the basilica has a height of 24 meters. The interior is characterized by a great harmony and simplicity of proportions. The central nave is separated from the two aisles by two rows of paired columns. Twelve very rich chapels - decorated with architectural motifs - are situated in the two aisles. The high altar - built in 1767 - is inlaid with polychrome marbles.

The Baroque style Cattedrale di SanPietro (Cathedral of San Pietro) dates back to the 13th century, but in the first version it was a small chapel named after San Pietro. After being chosen as the cathedral of the town diocese in 1572, it was renovated and enlarged, as it looks like nowadays; but some signs of the original building are still visible on the facade and on the right side of the church. The main treasure inside the cathedral is a Roman sarcophagus in polychrome marble known as “Sant'Eugenio's Ark”, because it was used as the patron saint's relics. The current aspect of this sarcophagus is the result of some restorations made between the 15th and the 16th centuries. Also noteworthy are the bishop's chair in carved walnut wood , the pulpit and a processional case in polychrome wood.

Noli - probably founded by the ancient Greeks - is located along a beautiful Ligurian bay, and borders Bergeggi to the east and Capo Noli to the west. The location of the village was an important factor in trade and Noli flourished. It was the capital of the Maritime Republic of the same name between 1193 and 1797, when it celebrated its heyday. Noli played an important role in the defence of the Ligurian coast against attacks. The historic centre of Noli has a maze of small narrow streets surrounded by medieval towers and colourful houses. The most interesting buildings are dating back to the 13th century; among them the Torre del Comune, the Palazzo del Comune (town hall) and the cathedral. The town is surrounded by steep hills and one can enjoy beautiful views over the roofs of the village. For instance from the old Castello di Monte Ursino (main image). Noli belongs to il borghi pui bella d'Italia (the most beautiful villages in Italy).

Varigotti - once a fishing village and nowadays a seaside resort, is characterized by bright coloured houseswith their ‘feet’ in the sand. Due to its beaches the villages is a popular tourist destination. Varigotti is also known as “Saracen hamlet”. Varigotti has experienced varied dominations over the centuries. In late antiquity times, it was known as Varicottis. In 643, when it was home to a Byzantine fortification, it was destroyed by the Lombard king Rothari. Later it suffered from Saracen raids, and in the 12th century it was contended between the marquisses of Noli and the Del Carretto family. Later it was a possession of the Republic of Genoa, and became an autonomous commune after the French Revolution. Once an independent municipality, in 1927 it became part of Finale Ligure.

The Basilica di San Nicolò - dedicated to St Nicholas of Bari - is located at the central square in the historic centre of Pietra Ligure. In the 18th century, construction of a new church began, in order to thank St Nicholas for the plague miracle. The building of the basilica - replacing an earlier church - started in 1750 and lasted 41 years. The church was blessed - although still unfinished - in 1791. The construction was finally completed after the rule of Napoleon. . In 1814, three heavy bells arrived by sea ready to be hoisted onto the bell tower. In 1863 a second bell tower was finished. Although the Baroque-Renaissance façade is simple and almost monochrome, entering the basilica one has the idea of being immersed in a work of art. The interior is truly a marvel for the eyes: the walls and ceiling are entirely decorated with religious motifs and scenes, and in the upper band of the walls, near the ceiling fresco, there is a series of niches and columns created using the 'trompe d'oeil' painting technique. The 16th century wooden choir and pulpit come from the Marseille Cathedral. The true marvel of the basilica is the immense and beautiful vault, 27.25 meters long and 23.50 meters wide.

While staying in Pietra Ligure, the event Pietra Ligure inFiore happened to be organised. During these days about 800 florists create masterpieces of flower mosaics on the street and squares of the town. Artists came from all over Italy as well as from Germany, France, Spain, Lithuania, Hungary, Poland and even Argentina. It was very interesting to follow their work throughout the day, from the tracing of the designs to the meticulous covering of the lines and spaces with flowers, both fresh and dried, right up to the composition of the large floral mosaic carpets. We are very happy having seen this extraordinary mix of art, culture and tradition.

Chiesa del Divo Martino (St. Martin Church) - the parish church of Portofino - is dedicated to Saint Martin of Tours. This striped church most likely dates back to the period between the 10th and 12th centuries. It is thought that it was built in Romanic-Lombard style, as a replacement for a primitive chapel located on the pier of Portofino. The consecration of the Chiesa del Divo Martino took place in 1548, on the occasion of the chest found under the main altar with relics of the Holy martyrs Dorothea, Cassiano and Vincenzo. Subsequently, it will be restored time and time again, and the current building is the result of the 19th century changes. The main facade is decorated with simple decorative elements and the window is a medallion that is located above the main entrance. On the right side of the building there is a square bell tower. The bright interior is decorated with beautiful frescoes, huge chandeliers and massive columns connected by arched openings. This church came on my bucket list after I saw a photo by Stephan Fey on Ipernity.

The coastal town of Portofino is located in the heart of the Italian Riviera with a tranquil crescent harbour with a hill of olive groves and small vineyards in its background. The harbour cradled by a piazza which in turn is rimmed by pastel coloured houses. Portofino is one of the most iconic Mediterranean places. As one of the most renowned tourist resorts in the world the town attracts thousands of travelers, including artists, politicians and celebrities of international level. Portofino’s birth is dating back to the Roman era, when it was known by the name Portus Delphini (Dolphin’s Harbour). The Benedictines established a monastery in the 1400s, only to abandon it in the 1500s after repeated raids by pirates. The building remained an empty ruin until the 1800s, when a titled European family restored it as a summer villa. In the 1850s, British aristocrats began making Portofino popular, believing that relics of St. George, England’s patron saint, rested in the parish church. Only 500 people live in Portofino: fishing families, shop owners, people with hotels or restaurants and a few who work in Genoa. During our visit, we climbed to the viewpoint next to the Church of St. George. Unfortunately, the view of the picturesque harbour was spoilt by some ugly large yachts.