35mm Focus Free

This cheap plastic 35mm point and shoot camera has no manufacturer's name located anywhere either on the packaging, the instruction sheet or the camera itself. But, it is a nice design, somewhat sturdy, has a sliding lens cover and features a hotshoe for an external flash. I intend on trying it out to see how it performs.

This was taken with a cheap, plastic no-name brand camera that I picked up for $1 at the local antique store. It was brand new, however, and in it's original packaging. And not only that, it has a hot shoe for an electronic flash that really works. Taken on March 27th, 2014, at 11.56 p.m., and on Kentmere black and white 35mm film and an electronic flash. I've noticed one thing about it after using this camera - what you see in the viewfinder is actually about half of what the camera actually picks up. What I actually had lined up in the viewfinder was the area in between the two horse candle holders. But, other than that, it seems to work pretty good. I'll have to run a whole roll through it for a further test. 35mmFF 01gf

Two cow statues in somebody's yard near my house. This was all that was usable in this frame - the rest was all white, overexposed due to light leak. But, then it was at the beginning where this area of the film had already had two chances to be exposed normally. The camera I used was so cheap, the manufacturer didn't even bother to name it or list who manufactured it. The camera is simply called, "35mm Camera." I did pick it up for $1 and it was brand new and never been opened or used - and it works pretty good, considering. I had attempted to use this half roll of cut-down Tri-X on Monday and Tuesday in a Kodak 154 Instamatic 126 camera, but issues prevented the film from winding correctly, so no frames were exposed but the first one. I'm certain that's where the light leaks originated from. Stand developing it for an hour and a half really helped to lower the grain. That was my first time trying such a long developing time, so I'm definitely going to have to try it again. Camera: "35mm Camera" (unknown manufacturer) Film: Kodak Tri-X 400 35mm film (cut down to half a roll) Aperture: f/8 (fixed) Shutter Speed: 1/100 sec. (fixed) Date: June 15th, 2016, 12.58 p.m. Location: Norris City, Illinois, U.S.A. Developing chemicals and times: Adox Adonal (1:150): 1 1/2 hours stand developed Water Rinse: 30 secs. Ilford Ilfostop Stopbath: 1 minute Ilford Hypam Fixer: 8 minutes Water Rinse: 2 minutes. 35mm Camera Tri-X Test 17-2ff

I had loaded this film in another camera, but didn't use it. As you can see, it had some serious light leak issues and when I used it in this camera, this is all I got from this frame. But it turned out kind of old and spooky looking. Camera: 35mm Camera (unknown manufacturer) Film: Kodak Tri-X 400 35mm film (cut down to half a roll) Aperture: f/8 (fixed) Shutter Speed: 1/100 sec. (fixed) Date: June 15th, 2016, 1.01 p.m. Location: Norris City, Illinois, U.S.A. Developing chemicals and times: Adox Adonal (1:150): 1 1/2 hours stand developed Water Rinse: 30 secs. Ilford Ilfostop Stopbath: 1 minute Ilford Hypam Fixer: 8 minutes Water Rinse: 2 minutes. 35mm Camera Tri-X Test 18-2ef

This is the side of a local building downtown where the Juniors always get to paint their names on it when the Seniors are gone away on their trip each May. Legal graffiti, in other words! The camera I used was so cheap, the manufacturer didn't even bother to name it or list who manufactured it. The camera is simply called, "35mm Camera." I did pick it up for $1 and it was brand new and never been opened or used - and it works pretty good, considering. I had attempted to use this half roll of cut-down Tri-X on Monday and Tuesday in a Kodak 154 Instamatic 126 camera, but issues prevented the film from winding correctly, so no frames were exposed but the first one. I'm certain that's where the light leaks originated from. Stand developing it for an hour and a half really helped to lower the grain. That was my first time trying such a long developing time, so I'm definitely going to have to try it again. Camera: "35mm Camera" (unknown manufacturer) Film: Kodak Tri-X 400 35mm film (cut down to half a roll) Aperture: f/8 (fixed) Shutter Speed: 1/100 sec. (fixed) Date: June 15th, 2016, 1.08 p.m. Location: Norris City, Illinois, U.S.A. Developing chemicals and times: Adox Adonal (1:150): 1 1/2 hours stand developed Water Rinse: 30 secs. Ilford Ilfostop Stopbath: 1 minute Ilford Hypam Fixer: 8 minutes Water Rinse: 2 minutes. 35mm Camera Tri-X Test 20ff

This is some of the area downtown where I live, 4 blocks from my house. You can see the ominous clouds - a storm was approaching right before I took this shot. About 20 minutes later, it hit. This was probably the image with the least light leaks. The camera I used was so cheap, the manufacturer didn't even bother to name it or list who manufactured it. The camera is simply called, "35mm Camera." I did pick it up for $1 and it was brand new and never been opened or used - and it works pretty good, considering. I had attempted to use this half roll of cut-down Tri-X on Monday and Tuesday in a Kodak 154 Instamatic 126 camera, but issues prevented the film from winding correctly, so no frames were exposed but the first one. I'm certain that's where the light leaks originated from. Stand developing it for an hour and a half really helped to lower the grain. That was my first time trying such a long developing time, so I'm definitely going to have to try it again. Camera: "35mm Camera" (unknown manufacturer) Film: Kodak Tri-X 400 35mm film (cut down to half a roll) Aperture: f/8 (fixed) Shutter Speed: 1/100 sec. (fixed) Date: June 15th, 2016, 1.09 p.m. Location: Norris City, Illinois, U.S.A. Developing chemicals and times: Adox Adonal (1:150): 1 1/2 hours stand developed Water Rinse: 30 secs. Ilford Ilfostop Stopbath: 1 minute Ilford Hypam Fixer: 8 minutes Water Rinse: 2 minutes. 35mm Camera Tri-X Test 21ef