Jaap van 't Veen's photos

The Holy Cathedral of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary is located in the central square at the heart of the village. The church was built in the period 1730-1750 and then burned by the Ottomans in 1826, rebuilt, but was destroyed again by the Germans in 1943. The clock on its left belfry is stopped at the time - 14.34 hours - of the Nazi atrocity in December 1943, while on the right a new clock measures the time since the liberation from the Germans. A plaque reads “The hour of destruction left a scar on time. The silenced clock will always read disaster and death, blood, fire and pain at the exact hour the lament began. December 13, 1943” On the second clock tower a plaque reads “The Holy Cathedral of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary was set on fire by the Ottomans in 1826. Was set on fire again by the German on December 13th 1943”.

National Park Kotyhi Stropfylia ( Εθνικό Πάρκο υγροτόπων Κοτυχίου Στροφυλιάς ) extends over an area of approximately 8.000 ha and includes a unique combination of habitats of high ecological and aesthetic values. Its most characteristic ones are the wetlands and surrounding seasonal flooded areas, forests (consisting of three tree species: umbrella pine, Aleppo pine and valonia oak), sand dunes and calcareous hills. Kotyhi Stropfylia is an ideal rest stop for migratory birds and home of a large variety of plants and animals.

The monastery of Agia Lavra is one of the oldest monasteries in Peloponnese. The first one was built in the year 961, but it was burnt down three times: in 1585 by the Turks, in 1826 by the armies of Ibrahim Pasha of Egypt and by the German troops in 1943. Finally, in 1950 the monastery of Agia Lavra was rebuilt. Which means the buildings are quite modern, except for a small chapel - dating back till 1600 - where the Greek War of Independence of 1821 was declared (PiP1). The monastery’s museum is devoted to historical treasures. Among them perhaps the most remarkable is the Revolution’s Banner; the first flag of independent Greece (just a pity photography is forbidden in the museum) .

Chlemoutsi Castle (Κάστρο Χλεμούτσ) was founded in 1220-1223 by the ruler Godefridus I Villehardouin and was the strongest fortress of the Frankish principality of Achaia. Originally the castle was called “Château Clermont”, travellers referred to this incredible structure as “Castle Tornese” and the Byzantines called it “Chloumoutzi”. Built in a strategic position, with an extensive view of the plain of Ilia and the Ionian Sea, it protected the capital Andravida, the important harbour of Glarenza and the palace of the house of Villehardouin within the walls of the castle. The castle was equipped with a double fortification. The central part of the castle, which stands at the hilltop, was a two-storey hexagonal structure and housed the princely palace. The halls were arranged around a central courtyard. Chlemoutsi castle began to lose its important role in the defence of the region as early as the end of the Frankish occupation. In 1701 Grimani proposed its destruction. Its location did not serve the interests of the Venetians, which were related to the sea, and the already old castle required extensive work to repair and modernise it. Chlemoutsi remained in Turkish possession until the Greek War of Indepence of 1821. Chlemoutsi Castle still retains its strong Frankish character and remains one of the most important and best preserved fortresses in Greece and is an excellent example of the fortress architecture of the Frankish era in the Peloponnese. Nowadays some of the restored halls of the castle house a museum with about 500 objects on display (PiP5).

Church of Saint Nicholas in the coastal village of Arkoudi.

Arkoudi is a small coastal village in the heart of Peloponnese. This picturesque seaside haven offers a sandy beach and the allure of a hidden island-like retreat.

At the south edge of Methoni Castle a fortified islet floats. Bourtzi - as it is called - was built in the1500’s by the Venetians and is connected to the Sea Gate of the castle with a paved tiny road. At various times it was used as a fort, a prison, a lighthouse, and a refuge during periods of raids. Bourtzi consists of an octagonal tower, which is surrounded by a low octagonal wall. The tower is built on two levels and is covered with a semi-cylindrical dome. A four-sided cistern occupies its ground floor.

Methoni Castle - one of the most important fortress complexes in Greece - was built after 1209 by the Venetians, who at the time were occupying the area and were seeking to fortify the towns from piracy and rivals seeking to overtake their territories. It was the Venetians who began to build the castle, while during its occupation by the Franks and Ottomans, it unavoidably underwent their alterations. The castle reached its great prime during the 1st Venetian Rule, between the 13th and the 15th century, while its final decline came about around 1828, when its inhabitants were transferred outside the walls, leaving it to ruin. The Castle of Methoni covers an area of approximately 93,000 square metres and is divided into two parts. The south part is taken up by the city, which is surrounded by a simple wall, while the city’s fort lies at its northern part, with exterior fortification owing to its defensive purpose. The castle is separated from the land by a ditch and can be reached by a stone bridge with 14 arches.

The monastery of Timi Prodromos is located within the walls of the castle of Koroni. It is still inhabited by nuns who follow the Julian Old Calendar. It was founded in 1918 by the monk Theodoulos, where he lived and practiced as an ascetic. It is a large, well kept monastery, both inside and outside with the temple of Timios Prodromos and a chapel dedicated to the Presentation of the Virgin Mary. The nuns are running a small souvenir shop (PiP4). We climbed to the top of an octagonal tower - located inside the courtyard of the monastery - with amazing views over the village of Koroni and the endless blue sea (PiP5).

The Holy Byzantine Church of Zoodochos Pigi Samarina (Ιερός Βυζαντινός Ναός Ζωοδόχου Πηγής – Σαμαρίνας) was built in the 12th century. The church was built as the catholicon of the women’s monastery which is considered to be founded by Andronikos II Palaiologos. From the monastery survive today only the ruins of cells, the cistern and one cemetery church nearby. Architecturally the church belongs to the type of cross-in-square church with a dome supported by two columns. During later stages they added the narthex, with the open portico on the western side, and the bell tower, which is considered Frankish, in the 13th century. The walls are built very carefully, at the lower part with large rectangular stones that came from ancient buildings, and the upper part with rich ceramic decoration. At the interior of the church there are impressive wall paintings, with characteristic the monumental representations of Christ’s life. Nowadays the Church of Zoodochos Pigi (Liife Giving Source) is the metochi (= embassy church) of the Voulcanou Monastery . It is located in the middle of nowhere between the villages Kalogerorachi and Ellinoekklisia. It is considered being one of the most beautiful; and well preserved Byzantine monuments of the Peloponnese

The Polylimnio Waterfalls are a collection of 15 cascading waterfalls and azure and turquoise little lakes located in the heart of Peloponnese. The waterfalls are formed by the flow of the Kadis River. The name of this waterfall complex comes from the word (poly=many, limnio=lake), which together means “many lakes”. Each of the lakes has its own name: for instance Mavrolimna , meaning “black lake”, Tou Italou , which means “of the Italian” and Stathula , which is a girl’s name. The biggest lake is “Kadi Lake”, which has the biggest waterfalls that reach a height of 25 meters. We were really surprised by the gorge with the waterfalls and little lakes, which looks like a paradise on earth. It was one of the hidden gems during our holiday on the Peloponnese. Polylimnio means “many lakes” and this is exactly what we discovered. We walked along a path with rocks, tree roots and metal aiding handles. It was tough and tiring - especially with the high temperatures - but totally worth it.

Agia Theodora (Church of Holy Virgin Martyr Theodora) is a small Byzantine church with 17 trees - 200 years old - growing on its roof; most of them are taller than 20 metres. Only one single root can be seen above the entrance. No roots can be seen anywhere else, not even inside the church. The walls are 70 cm thick. Underneath the church is the source of a river whose water feeds the trees. Inhabitants of the region have built the church in the 12th century. Nowadays the church is a popular place of pilgrimage. Believers are said to have received numerous miracles. In 1965 the church was declared a monument. Theodora grew up in Vasta, where the family would send the sons to fight in the army against the enemy. Having no boys in the family, Theodora decided to join the army to save her father from having to do so. Disguising herself as the soldier Theodore, she soon became one of the most valiant and brave soldiers. A woman soon developed lustful feelings for “Theodore” and claimed that he had impregnated her. Theodora was commanded to either marry the woman or be condemned to death. Doing nothing to prove her innocence (as easy as this would be) Theodora placed her hope in God. Being condemned to death, before her execution, she prayed, “Let my body become a church, my blood a river, and my hair the trees.” On the spot where she was martyred, a spring gushed forth which flooded to become a river which still exists today. The 17 trees on the roof of the church are symbolizing Theodora's age at the time of death.

Andromonastiro ( Ανδρομονάστηρο ) is a Byzantine monastery fortress founded at the end of the 12th century. Since it was built like a fortress, it contributed significantly to the Greek War of Independence of 1821, where it suffered a lot of damage from Ottoman troops. In 1785, and in order to halt the decline of the monastery, it was dedicated, as metochi (= embassy church), to the famous monastery of Agia Aikaterini on Mount Sinai. They sold the complex in 1929 and in 1862 it was granted to the Voulcanou Monastery . Andromonastiro stands out for its remarkable fortress-like architecture, with buildings from different periods and various uses. Thecomplex consists of a three-storey building with the dining room, a two-storey wing with the monks' cells, storerooms, stables and the wine press and another two-storey building with the main entrance to the monastery. The katholikon (main church) of the monastery was built at the end of the 12th century on a holy place, a spring with drinking water, which still gushes today in an underground vaulted space. A second construction phase took place in the 17th century; in the middle of the 17th century, the northern chapel of Saint Catherine was added to the church. The oldest frescoes date back to the middle of the 13th century. The newest frescoes belong to the 17th-18th century and are located in the lower perimeter zone of the church. The monastery, which was in ruins for many years, has been completely restored since 2011. Nowadays it is considered being the most impressive monastic complex in the Messenian countryside and one of the most beautiful in the Peloponnese.

One of Greece’s most significant archaeological sites, Ancient Messene is also renowned for the impressive ruins of its monumental fortification - the 9,5 km long circuit wall flanked by towers at regular intervals with two main entrances, one of which is the Arcadian Gate. Large rectangular limestone blocks were used for its construction quarried on the spot on the rocky body of Mt. Ithome which at places preserves evidence of ancient quarrying activity. The city wall was 9,5 km long and 7 to 9 metres high. It was fortified by 30 square or horseshoe-shaped guard towers with doors admitting passage to a protected walkway on top of the wall. The wall was pierced by two main gates flanked by protective structures. Through the Arcadian Gate to the north ran and still runs the main road north (to Arcadia), currently from Mavrommati. The Arcadian Gate and adjacent section of the wall up to were restored from 2003 to 2005.

Ancient Messene is considered of being amongst the most exciting and complete archaeological settlements ever discovered and one of the most beautifully situated. Little more than a lush green valley in the southwestern Peloponnese - not far away from the city of Kalamata - just 40 years ago, it now ranks as one of the most significant remains of Greek antiquity. The city was founded in 369 BC and for many years the capital of the Messinian state. It flourished in the 4th century BC after the defeat of the Spartans by the Theban General Epaminondas, ending centuries of Spartan rule. The city was never subsequently destroyed or settled over, allowing an astonishing insight into life in ancient times. A complex that some believe is little more than a third excavated has already revealed the remains of a theatre, agora, stadium and gymnasium, as well as an assortment of sanctuaries, temples, statues, springs and dwellings. Nowadays Ancient Messene is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Kalograion Monastery (or “Monastery of the Nuns”) was founded in 1796 and has been a female-only Greek Orthodox monastery, housing hundreds of nuns through the years. It is dedicated to Saints Constantine and Helen. The complex is situated among the foothills of Kalamata Castle in the narrow streets of the historical centre. The complex’s main building is rectangular and surrounds a central courtyard filled with orange trees. It has a church integrated into it and also houses the nuns’ living areas. The monastery was built on the ruins of an abandoned 13th-century church, and some of the remains can be seen near the main altar. Throughout its history, the monastery has also served as a local charity and as a place of refuge, coming to the aid of the local population during the Ottoman occupation, the German/Italian occupation, the Greek Civil War, and after the devastating earthquake of 1986. The monastery was well known for the production of the famous Kalamata silk scarves, known to be among the finest in the world. One still can visit the weaving room. (As far as I understand the nuns are no longer weaving these products.)

The castle of Kalamata is situated on a hilltop northwest of the modern city. It was originally constructed during the Byzantine times and even an ancient acropolis before the Trojan War. In the beginning of the 13th century Gottfried A Villard, Frank prince and founder of the Principality of Achaea, conducted a large reconstruction of the castle, which resulted to its present form of a typical Byzantine fort. A shelter-like tower with a vaulted cistern is situated on the wall’s steepest side. There are two fortification zones: the hilltop was protected by the inner fortificationline, while a second outer fortification zone surrounded the accessible and more vulnerable east side of the castle. The fortification walls were developed following the natural terrain and bore bastions, not preserved today. During the second Venetian occupation, which lasted from 1685 to 1715, new alterations and repairs took place. Among them stands out the reconstruction of the East Gate, where was immured a slab bearing a winged lion, landmark of Venice. In 1825 the castle suffered extended destructions caused by the Ottoman army. In the 6th century a chuch was built in the castle devoted to Virgin Mary. An icon of here in the church became famous as Kalomata (= “beautiful eyes”). This later evolved to “Kalamata”, which became the name of the church, castle and city.

The Church of the Holy Apostles ( Ιερός Ναός των Αγίων Αποστόλων ) is a small Byzantine church, probably dating back to the 12th century. During the years of the second Venetian occupation (1685-1715), a basilica dome was added to the west of the central building, in order to give more space to the church, as well as a bell tower at its northeast side. The church is decorated with frescoes which probably date from the 17th century and are preserved in a (poor) state. ( Doors were closed, so I could not visit the interor of the chuch .) The church suffered extended damages due to a strong earthquake in 1986. Since then a series of restoration projects were conducted in order to restore the temple. The small Church of the Holy Apostles - located in the historic center of Kalamata - is one of the most significant monuments in the history of the modern Greek state. It made history the morning of 23rd of March 1821. Kalamata has just got liberated from the Ottomans and after the final victory, the local population assembled in front of the church. There was held the first Greek Orthodox mass on free Greek territory in over 360 years. The Greeks then made a formal declaration of independence in front of the church and then took an oath of loyalty to the revolution. The Greeks continued with their efforts and eventually achieved full victory and independence in 1832.